France in November…

Sunset over a vineyard in the Loire Valley of France

In 2018 we traveled to France for the week of Thanksgiving. A full week to enjoy as much of the French countryside, chateau’s, pastries, history, and spirits as we could manage. So many wonderful memories to share. I’ll keep it to the highlights but know this; Imagine the shock when as we had escaped the frenzy of Black Friday only to discover, they “celebrate” this day in France as well. Oh the horrors, or delight depending upon who you are.

The grounds of Chateau Amboise

Every ancient building held together with years of care allowed us to experience history just a bit. The art on the walls, the tapestries and the furniture all laid out for us to see.

Leonardo Davinci lives here…

Well clearly he no longer lives here, but this was a gardening hut on the property that was his last home and place he rests at Amboise Chateau. The grounds were filled with replicas of his inventions. Each invention was something you could try out, except the flying ones. If I had been a child it could not have been more fun. The trails wound around and through and in between each mechanical item. It was a pretty typical fall day but some how the light was different. It was brighter and the sunlight followed us throughout the extensive grounds.

Chateau Amboise

The view from an upper terrace through the changing leaves. It may have been late in the season, with fewer visitors, yet everywhere on the premises was another fantastical thing to adore. The landscape was full of precision with not a leaf out of place.

Amboise Troglodyte

What an incredible place to stay. A beautiful bed and breakfast tucked in the mountains in the heart of the Loire Valley. Amboise Troglodyte is not only a restful and beautiful place to stay, but an experience. Our hosts Alexis & Lotte welcomed us into a perfect place for our first place to rest our feet in France.

The accommodations were charming and different than either of us had experienced. We were graced with a beautiful continental breakfast that what I remember the most is the yogurt in a jar.

Being able to sleep nestled inside this suite made of rock was the perfect way to start our trip.

A place for the pigeons to roost…

This wondrous and unique building at one time in its life housed the pigeons. It was shaped in an octagon, built of brick with little cubbies for each bird. No longer in residence, but a beautiful structure on the grounds of Chateau Amboise.

It may seem as if Chateau Amboise was the only place we ventured while in France, but hence this is not the case. One place that has held our hearts since we had a glass of wine with our croissants for breakfast. It was technically brunch. The medieval city of Sarlat-La-Caneda, Sarlat meanders over cobblestone streets between stone walls, wine and cheese shops, and fabulous places to eat. We just happened to be there mid-week during their farmer’s market.

Hot croissants delivered in a paper bag in the courtyard farmers market in France, is there ANYTHING better.. Not a chance. When we speak of places we would like to re-visit or dare I say live, Sarlat is the place that always comes to mind. Certainly as a tourist things look differently than if you reside full time. But it is an enchanting place that captured our hearts. Each corner provided small shops with candies, toys or cheese and wine. The restaurants were delicious and cozy. The place that we stayed was a second floor AirBnb spot with a cute loft overlooking a small street. A great place to land for a few days until we stepped out for the next part of our journey.

The Streets of Sarlat-La-Caneda in Autumn

The magic of this medieval city stretched throughout the ivy covered walls and stone streets. It was beautiful and welcoming. We found out that this area was know for Foie Gras. It was on shelves in cans all over. However, it was not tried until we returned to Vermont. It is yucky and that is a technical term.

The planning for our trip to France began a year prior to leaving. Since there were many places we wanted to see and only a week to see them, we narrowed it down to the must sees. Believe it or not, Paris was not one of them. Although seeing the Louvre would have been a surreal experience, being in Paris proper didn’t really draw us in.

The last two places we stayed prior to heading back towards home had been really important to us both. The first was to Oradour-sur-Glane and the second was Cognac to stay at a lovely bed and breakfast and to visit Cognac Bertrand.

Oradour-Sur-Glane

The massacre of this rural village on June 10, 1944 was and still is devastating.

It is history worth knowing and the link will tell more about it. But for us it was about truly FEELING the sadness and being overwhelmed by the lives that were taken by evil that should never be.

Since the village is left just as it was that day, everything remains. When. you see the bicycles parked against the wall, it speaks to what had been and what was stolen.

Grand Campagne Chapter - Luzac-Saint-Andre’

This lovely bed and breakfast with hosts Ann and Chris was one of the highlights of our trip. This lovely fully renovated property that maintained all of the original charm.

We had dinner prepared by this amazing couple that included duck and I can’t remember what else. The wine, food and company of these people was a night to remember. We arrived as guests and left as friends. There is hope to return to this fine place again some day.

The tour at Cognac Bertrand distillery was charming, informative and turned me from a dedicated scotch drinker into one that will only indulge with a glass of fine Cognac. We left with several bottles to hold us over until the next time. Theresa and her husband Seth provided the tour and tasting. Learning that the grapes of Cognac are the only ones that will be used to make the spirit called “Cognac”. Their boutique brand is only 10% of the grapes grown on their rich grounds.

The tasting presented us with a story for each layer of spirit. Each one paired with a different pastry and as with most spirits they are held in barrels for a length of time. The favorite, of course, was the one left in the barrel for 35 years (XO). Maybe it was the experience of sitting in a French Chateau in France eating macrons made by a friend of the family that made each taste better than the next. Regardless, we would recommend this on your next trip to the Cognac region. If you are not going to be there in the near future, see if the spirits are some where you happen to be, give it a taste. It is divine.

Even with the shadow of Black Friday, it was a trip to remember. Exploring a new country during a time of year that many don’t travel to that area was extraordinary. The crowds were low and France is and was outstanding.